Cairns:
"where the rainforest meets the reef"
September-October, 2007
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© David Powell,
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Day 1:
Arrival

Day 2:
Kuranda

Day 3:
Paronella

Day 4:
Pt Douglas

Day 5:
Daintree

Day 6:
Kuranda

Day 7:
Cairns

Day 8:
Reef Trip

Day 9:
Departure


Day 6
Another bits and pieces day. An early morning trip to the beach and then we headed back up into the mountains for a longer visit to Kuranda. More sights ... and more shopping. By car this time. The road up the mountains to Kuranda is quite winding - not exactly for the weak of stomach. Think roller coaster. Well ok, maybe not that bad. Ross Lookout, maybe half way up, gives great views over Cairns and north to Palm Cove. Mind you, the lookout car park is 100
Kuranda
Coondoo St (main street), Kuranda
Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda
The Ark - Doongal Arts & Crafts
Centre, Kuranda
Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda
Gardens, Coondoo St, Kuranda
Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda
View from Rainforest Restaurant
verandah, Kuranda

Image © David Powell, 2007
metres downhill .. there is a turning lane into the lookout, but nowhere to drive. Strange. The car park is just before the "lookout 100m ahead" sign, heading uphill.

Spent the day in Kuranda. Shopping, window shopping and, well, more shopping. With a bit of sightseeing. But mostly shopping since that's what Kuranda is all about. When the last scenic train and Skyrail leave at 3pm, the town shuts down for the day .. only a few stragglers who drove up are left. By 4pm a couple of cafe's are open .. and that's it. Had lunch at the Rainforest View Restaurant. Lovely 270' views over the balcony of rainforest .. so close you could touch it if you wanted to. Literally. More a cafe than a restaurant ... but definitely worth it for the view. For the warmer months of the year there's an inside area that's air conditioned. There're quite a few Aborigines in the area (and several settlements and reservations), so there're naturally a few native craft shops - including one called "The Ark" which is built in the shape of an ark .. Noah's, that is. Sadly reinforcing the racial stereotype there was a grog shop nearby .. with over a dozen or so loitering out the front (and no "whites"). Sometimes stereotypes may sadly have a bit of truth to them or they'd not exist. Plenty of opal shops - actually plenty of them in the whole region (and a lot of the jewellery is locally made). Must've been for the Japanese trade (they're crazy about opals), even if that trade has tapered off lately. Mind you, there's no locally mined opal .. it all comes from interstate.

If you're in the Cairns area and interested in the shopping, then Kuranda is a must! Not that much in fashion clothing, but lots of accessories, knick knacks, "dust collectors", jewellery and so forth. Most pretty good quality and well priced. Cairns, on the other hand, seems to be full of trash stores .. and more expensive. Still, there is some good stuff in Cairns .. you just have to look harder. Then there're places like Palm Cove and Port Douglas .. lots of decent stuff, but oh the prices! So Kuranda it is! The town is quite well laid out with streets full of tropical trees and plants (the main street has a whole string of Curtain Fig trees .. quite photogenic). And it manages to retain a mountain village atmosphere despite the hordes. The climate's also a lot milder - the altitude of 400m certainly makes a difference.

The town of Kuranda dates back to 1885. Shortly after the town was established the railway came thru'. Kuranda was ideally sited as a way-station on the line - to the west was the Atherton Tableland and all its mineral and agricultural wealth waiting to be tapped, to the east was the trip down the mountainsides to the coast and the sea ports. Kuranda itself was a coffee town for many years until in the early 1900's severe frosts wiped out the crops. Reinventing itself
Kuranda
Forest kingfisher, Birdworld, Kuranda
Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda
Scarlet honey-eater, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda became a holiday destination for locals, especially as word spread of the magnificent Barron Falls and the lushness of the rainforest. Since then the town has continued to grow as a tourist mecca. In the 1960's there was a flourishing hippie community in the area and by the late 70's this had evolved into a flourishing community of artists and musicians pursuing an alternative lifestyle, whilst at the same time selling home grown produce and hand crafts to the visitors. Today the hippie community has faded away but the flourishing cottage craft community it gave birth to remains, stronger than ever. The town even has its own 3500-seat amphitheater, carved out of the hills in 1979.

We ended the day in Kuranda with a visit to the Bird Sanctuary, "Birdworld Kuranda". We'd already seen the Butterfly Sanctuary, seen plenty of Koala's, so gave them the miss. That left the Venomous Animals Zoo and the bird place. Time to do only one so ended up doing the birds since that was closer. A nicely landscaped interior full of waterfalls, lush vegetation, tall trees, ponds and so forth. It was one huge aviary - all the birds were free flying and quite used to human company. Lots of photo opportunities. parrots, doves, finches, waterfowl etc from all over the world. Even some breeding cassowaries. The Scarlet macaw that lived right near the entrance seemed to be just as interested in the tourists as the tourists were in him. He certainly liked having his photograph taken and would try to get himself in the best pose! That's one animal Cecil B. DeMille was wrong about when he said ".. never work with children or animals..." or something like that. Over 500 birds in the sanctuary, some of them quite tame.

Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda
Buff Banded Rail, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
King Parrot, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
Mandarin Duck, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda
Scarlet Macaw
Image © David Powell, 2007
Emerald Dove, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
Alexandrine Parrot
Image © David Powell, 2007
Pied Heron, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda
Chesnut Mannikin, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
Fig Bird, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
Zebra Finch, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda
Sun Conures', Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
White-headed pigeons necking
Image © David Powell, 2007
White-headed pigeons, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda
Red-winged Parrot, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
Lewins Honeyeater, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007
Nesting Sun Conure, Birdworld
Image © David Powell, 2007

On the way back down the mountains we stopped at the Henry Ross Lookout on the Kuranda Road. Great views north and south of Cairns and the Northern beaches. Alas the view was somewhat hazy - actually it was hazy the entire holiday. Stopped at the Outback Opal Mine, just on the outskirts of Palm Cove. A nice selection of opal specimens, even a few uncut pieces .. including one such piece on sale for $75,000. The shop is owned and run by two retired opal miners from Cooper Pedy, Joe and Susan Clyde.

Henry Ross Lookout
Henry Ross Lookout
Henry Ross Lookout
View from Henry Ross Lookout,
Smithfield-Kuranda Road

Image © David Powell, 2007
View from Henry Ross Lookout,
Smithfield-Kuranda Road

Image © David Powell, 2007
View from Henry Ross Lookout,
Smithfield-Kuranda Road

Image © David Powell, 2007

Back to Palm Cove.. more shops, more shopping, more photo's .. including some of the beach just before sunset. A delicate hint of pink in the sky.

Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Seagull in the surf, Palm Cove Beach
Image © David Powell, 2007
Sunset, Palm Cove Beach
Image © David Powell, 2007
Sunset, Palm Cove Beach
Image © David Powell, 2007

Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove
Image © David Powell, 2007
Sunset, Palm Cove Beach
Image © David Powell, 2007
Sunset, Palm Cove Beach
Image © David Powell, 2007

Some web sites of relevance (valid as of November 2007) General
 Tourism Tropical North Queensland: http://www.tropicalaustralia.com.au
 Wet Tropics World Heritage Area: http://www.wettropics.gov.au

Kuranda
 Atherton Tablelands Kuranda: http://www.tablelands.org/kuranda.html
 Australian Butterfly Sanctuary: http://www.australianbutterflies.com
 Birdworld Kuranda: http://www.birdworldkuranda.com
 Kuranda - Village in the Rainforest: http://www.kuranda.org/
 Kuranda Scenic Railway: http://www.ksr.com.au
 Kuranda Skyrail Foundation: http://wwwskyrailfoundation.org
 Kuranda Skyrail: http://www.skyrail.com.au
 Rainforest View Restaurant, Kuranda: http://www.rainforestview.com.au/

Palm Cove
 Nu Nu Restaurant: http://www.nunu.com.au
 Palm Cove Travel Guide: http://www.palmcoveaustralia.com/index.html
 Palm Cove Village: http://www.palmcove.net/about.htm
 Sea Temple Resort: http://seatemple.com.au/
 The Outback Opal Mine: http://outbackopalmine.com.au